"So, is it over? At the very least, [El Bulli's] Adrià and his cohorts are no longer quite so avant-garde as they once were. In fashion, you know your haute couture is no longer haute when you see it in the Gap. In food, there are different indignities, all of which the Spaniards have suffered as of late."
Fish Foam and Spherified Mango Juice
by Lisa Abend
http://www.slate.com/id/2187483/
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